![]() In the ON position, it keeps your batteries isolated, so both can't be fully discharged by accident. "I can’t crank my engine!"is right up there with "I’m out of gas!" for ruining a day on the waterĭual Circuit Plus™: A simpler alternative to isolate your Start and House circuits is available in the Dual Circuit Plus Battery Switch (Model 7808801). Statistically, dead batteries are one of the most common reasons for calling a towing service. Inevitably, the operator (or the operator’s Brother in Law) may leave the switch in the BOTH position, resulting in a very dead battery. The problem is that this requires a lot of thought by the operator, who is trying to relax in the first place. When it was time to crank the engine again, the battery switch would be turned to BOTH, or possibly to the reserve battery, and the engine would be started. Once the engine was turned off (while anchored or under sail) the operator would (in theory) return the switch to the 1 or 2 position, and reserve a battery for starting. With the engine now running, the switch would stay in the BOTH setting, and both batteries would be charged while powering to the day’s destination. Prior to starting the engine, the operator would turn the OFF–1–2–BOTH battery switch to the BOTH position to have both batteries' full cranking power. ![]() Old–school OFF–1–2–BOTH battery switch: Most single engine boats built in the last 30 years are equipped with two nearly identical (and undersized) marine batteries, used interchangeably for starting or house loads. Remember to cover positive terminals with a boot (or the Tie where the tape ends to keep it from un–wrapping due to heat and Layers of quality electrician's tape and finish it with a small nylon Be sure to have aįire extinguisher on hand. Torch with a flame spreader if you are very careful. Gun is the best way to apply heat shrink, although you can use a propane Three–inch section of adhesive–lined heat shrink tubing. Joint between the cable insulation and the connector body with a Lanocote, or Boeshield into the connector before crimping. Spray a corrosion inhibitor such as Fluid Film, Positive and negative terminals often haveĭifferent diameters. UseĬlosed–barrel terminals with holes the right diameter for the bolts toīe used at the terminations. Must use a heavy–duty crimper designed for the purpose. Hammer blows will certainly fail, perhaps with catastrophic results. Terminals smashed on the cable with a pair of Vise Grips or a few Your installation so you may have to make your own battery cables. However, the lengths available may not be appropriate for Lengths with well–constructed connectors, properly covered withĪdhesive–lined heat shrink and terminated with closed barrel ring Pre–manufactured battery cables are available in various We recommend doubleĬrimped terminals, with solid metal–to–metal connections and heat shrink tubing for waterproof protection. Resistance and the best corrosion protection. Use tin plated copper connectors as well, for the least electrical Moisture, vibration, heat, abrasion, and chemicals are major enemies ofĪll electrical system components, and only marine rated wire (like thatįrom Ancor Marine) is built to withstand these conditions. We recommend low–resistance, tinned copper wire in all applications. Be very careful with uninsulated tools that might short Un–shielded droplights or any open sources of heat or flame around theīatteries. ![]()
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